Arunachal kayak trip

November in the Siang, Lohit, Kameng and Subansiri valleys, travelling expedition-style with a local fixer: homestays, river camps, long drives.

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    On the trip

    To use this site offline: open each tab once on wifi before you fly, then add it to your home screen (Share → Add to Home Screen).

    Field reference

    Emergencies

    India emergency112 (police, fire, ambulance) US consulate, Kolkata+91 33 6827 2400 (033-6827-2400 on an Indian SIM). Covers Arunachal and Assam; ask for American Citizen Services. US embassy, New Delhi+91 11 2419 8000 (011-2419-8000 on an Indian SIM) EvacuationNearest good hospitals: Dibrugarh, then Guwahati. Agree the plan with the fixer; satellite messengers are illegal.

    Phone & power

    TimeIndia Standard Time, UTC+5:30Power230 V; Type D (three round pins) and C (two pins) SIMAirtel or Jio tourist SIM at Delhi arrivals; BSNL is often the only signal in villagesDaylightabout 5:30 am to 4:15 pm in Arunachal

    Money

    CashRupees in small notes; villages can’t break ₹500ATMsGuwahati, Dibrugarh, Itanagar, Pasighat; they run out CardsVisa or Mastercard in cities only

    Water & food

    Hollow-fibre filters don’t stop viruses: filter plus chlorine dioxide, a virus-rated filter, or boil. Settle silt first. Homestays boil drinking water; ask for it. Eat hot, freshly cooked food; skip ice and raw salads. Wash hands with soap; sanitizer doesn’t kill norovirus.

    Homestays

    Shoes off at every door. Eat and pass things with your right hand. Dress modestly in villages. Ask before photographing people. Rice beer (apong) is offered as hospitality; a little is polite. Small gifts from home go over well; no cash or sweets for children.

    Health

    Malaria pills, repellent and permethrin-treated clothes: malaria, dengue and Japanese encephalitis are all present in the valleys. Treat every cut; they go septic fast. Fever after river trips: tell a doctor you were in river water (leptospirosis) and in grass (scrub typhus).

    Leave at home

    Garmin inReach, Zoleo, satellite phonesIllegal without Indian government permission; foreigners were arrested for them in 2024–25.
    DronesForeigners can’t fly them recreationally, and border districts are no-fly zones.
    Vapes and e-cigarettesBanned in India.
    Fuel, gas canisters, lightersNone of them can fly. Buy fuel and lighters in India.
    Maps showing Arunachal as disputedA sensitive subject; such maps can be confiscated. Stay off the China border topic with officials.
    Photos of army camps, bridges, checkpointsThe rule that gets travellers in trouble. Ask the fixer when unsure.